If you have ever been in Germany at Weihnachten (Christmas), you know it is a magical time. Christmas markets bring people together, the glühwein flows, the smell of Gebrannte Mandeln is everywhere, and Germans are at their jolliest. It is also a Coronavirus nightmare. People laughing, singing, drinking, and crowded together are serious super-spreader conditions.

Christmas – Breitscheid Platz Berlin 2019

In this strange year, Weihnachtsmärkte across the country have been all but cancelled. One by one they fell: Heidelberg, Nürnberg, Dresden. I was hoping against hope a few of Berlin’s usually 70 different markets would open and for a moment, it looked like they would. A lock down light has been in place for most of November in attempt to save Christmas. It truly is like Whoville here.

But – alas! – the virus numbers in Germany remain too high for something as frivolous as Christmas markets when people are dying. Restrictions in Germany have been extended to at least December 20th to allow families the chance to gather for the Christmas holiday itself, although even that is being cautioned against. In Berlin, there will be no easing of the rules meaning no more than five people from different households can meet even on hallowed Christmas Eve.

So what are we to do in Germany this Christmas? Winter in Germany without the cheer of the holidays is almost unimaginable. However, there must still be some joy to be found. I have tried to find the best replacements for the typical German Christmas activities. Here is how you can still celebrate Christmas in Germany in 2020.

No Christmas markets = Glühwein Crawl

I haven’t been to any of the usual market places, but I imagine it will be strange seeing them empty and without stands. Luckily, some new locations have popped up to help. As restaurants and bars are also suffering, closed again since the beginning of November, some have added glühwein stands to their take-out options. These jolly little stands offer a delightful bit of socially-distanced cheer. You can even make a jaunt of it and go on a whole glühwein crawl. Necessity is the mother of invention and some enterprising glühwein-lovers took it upon themselves to make a map of locations in Berlin.

No Sweet & Savory Treats = Buy or Make Your Own

Reinforcing the idea that Christmas markets are all about eating and drinking, I will also be mourning the loss of some of my favorite German eats. Granted, many of these are available year-round but I only eat these German delicacies once a year: Leberkase, Germknödel mit Vanille-Soße, Langos (Hungarian but a German market staple), Stollen, and Schmalzkuchen. This is only a tiny personalized list of favorites. What are your favorite Christmas market eats?

What to do about this missing delights in 2020? Luckily, there are options. German grocery stores are stocked with almost all of these in varying degrees of success. I highly recommend experimenting and finding your favorite. If you are sadly outside of Germany, online shops offer a taste of German Christmas.

This is also the perfect time to try making your favorites. It can be tricky converting measurements and looking for ingredients (quark in the USA, anyone?), but the results are highly rewarding. If you are looking for some cooking and baking resources, check out The Wednesday Chef and A Sausage Has Two.

No Christmas Carols = Church Concerts or Learn the German Words

If you look forward to Weihnachtslieder (Christmas carols) like “O Tannenbaum” (Oh Christmas Tree), “Weiße Weihnacht” (“White Christmas), and “Stille Nacht” (Silent Night) every Christmas, take heart that Christmas carols will still ring out this year. Take it back to church with some gatherings still occurring outside or in restricted number. Berliner Dom continues to hold a Procession of Advent Lessons and Carols throughout the season while following strict Covid protocols.

There is also nothing cozier then singing carols at home with your friends and/or family. Learn the German lyrics and history in Hyde’s excellent post, German Christmas Carols.

No Family = No Difference?

The truth is, not having family around for the holidays is normal for many people living abroad. I have been lucky in that I have been able to visit my hometown for several Christmases and have my family come visit me for many more. In fact, my father-in-law was going to be here this Christmas but obviously those plans – as well as any other travel – has been postponed.

So what to do this year? What many people do. Keep it close. Celebrate with your immediate family. Covid-safe and intimate. I am actually looking forward to just having my husband and kids. Less hectic, idyllically lazy, and perfect for 2020. This is the year of slowing down and the holidays are the time to take it easy.

If you are in Germany alone, this is the perfect year for a small friends Christmas. So many people are stranded this holiday season I am sure there are many people looking for a little togetherness to share in the Christmas spirit. No need to keep the festivities German. Go international and bring together the different foods and traditions of your international gathering.

No Firework = There will still be Fireworks

Berlin street with fireworks

My next point concerns Silvester versus Weihnachten, but it just as pertinent to the wholesale cancellation of 2020. In recent years, I have noticed a major change in people’s attitudes about fireworks with many people calling for a change to the all-out warfare that is German New Year’s Eve. In light of the overworked medical staff and facilities due to the pandemic, Germany is now taking this seriously. Fireworks will still be sold as lawmakers have stopped short of a general ban, but individuals setting off fireworks in the streets will be discouraged.

It has been a crazy year, and it is really no surprise that things will look a little different as 2020 comes to a close. If this year has taught us anything it should be to be grateful for all we have. Here’s hoping to a peaceful close to 2020, and a whole lot more good things for 2021.