The GW Expat Blog

What to Eat for Every Season in Germany

September 7, 2020
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I walked into the grocery store last week to discover the seasons are changing once again. The proof? A colorful display of Kürbis (pumpkin and assorted squash). I welcome the change as this really is my favorite season, and the bouts of intense sweaty heat this summer felt especially oppressive without any vacation escape on the horizon. But as this year alternately flies and crawls by thanks to the uncertainty of the Coronavirus, I was surprised to see we are swiftly approaching Herbst (fall).

Kuerbis Berlin

It’s Fall! PHOTO: Erin Porter

I really shouldn’t have been surprised. The leaves of the tree in our Hof (courtyard) have begun their lackadaisical decent to the ground. We’ve added a sweater to our outfit when leaving the house. Fall colds are in full effect. The arrival of a new season of eating really seals the deal, though.

In the USA – the land of convenience – you can get everything any time of the year. I was shocked when I arrived in Germany and found certain fruits and goods were unavailable or very expensive out of season. It made sense, but it hadn’t been noticeable for me in life before Germany. It was an adjustment, but now I appreciate it. Things taste better in season. It is more earth-friendly having goods not be shipped as far. And looking for things to come into season makes them an event.

Seasonal eating is a necessity in Germany. Each turn of the globe brings a different food to the forefront to be obsessed about. It is not just that pumpkins are in season, it is Kürbiszeit with something guordy on every menu and entire festivals dedicated to this seasonal eat. Find out what to eat for every season in Germany.

Kürbiszeit

October pumpkins Ludwigsburg Palace

Ludwigsburg Pumpkin Festival PHOTO: Alie

We have arrived in the season of pumpkins, gourds, and anything squash. This will continue into the winter as stews and roast Kürbis are a staple in colder weather, but its arrival is heralded with prominent display in the market and many festivals around the country.

I love attending the Kürbisfest in Berlin-Schöneberg now in its 21st year, but it is dwarfed by the biggest festival in the country, Ludwigsburg Pumpkin Festival. Held on the grounds of a palace, the focus is on the landscape which is covered in pumpkins which have been carved, weighed by the 100s of pounds, piled into sculptures, and even transformed into boats for a breathless race across the pond. Check out former co-blogger Alie’s coverage of a past event (on now!).

Pflaumenzeit

I remember a cousin in Seattle had a plum tree and so much fruit she didn’t know what to do with it. She gave buckets away to friends, to family, to anyone who would take one. She would have never had that problem in Germany.

The fruit is revered in Germany with a reported 41 percent of Germans saying the plum is their favorite fruit! Most commonly served in an array of cakes and baked goods, it is also made into Pflaumenmus, chutneys, jams, and anything else you can think of.

Erdbeerzeit

Strawberries are one of those decadent seasonal fruits you can usually get year-round in Germany, but the offerings in late winter can be pitiful. Shipped in from Spain or even further, they are usually worse for wear and start going bad in just a day or two.

I urge you to wait for the German strawberries that arrive in summer. Pristine and glowing a pert red they are infinitely sweeter and juicier than the poor imported relatives. In Berlin and several other cities, Karls Erlebnis-Dorf is a strawberry distributor that has fruit-shaped stands pop up on nearly every corner in the warmer months. Cartons of the delicious sweet are stacked high until they sell out, sometimes quite early. They also sell hand-pulled candies and jams.

My parents are such devotees of their Erdbeertraum jam we stock up on it whenever we go to their massive marketplace/strawberry paradise. That’s right – they have whole “farms” you can visit. I use farm in quotes to dispel any notions you have that this is a u-pick strawberry farm situation. That is what I expected the first time I went to their site in Brandenburg, but it is not that at all. It’s better. A wonderland of children’s rides like a guinea sack slide, tractor ride, corn maze, and roller coaster, it is also a massive mercantile store to sell cute decor to the parents with a buffet feast of German classics. While there is strawberry ice cream, cookies, jams, etc., there is not a strawberry plant in sight.

Pfifferlinge

Known in English as chanterelles, these fussy, frilly little mushrooms are just one of the mushrooms the Germans are crazy for from September to mid-October. On average, a German consumes over 6 lbs of mushrooms per year!

A beloved weekend activity is hunting down Pfifferlinge, Steinpilze, or Maronenpilze, but do so with caution. A percentage of mushroom hunters fall ill from their prey every year. Bring an experienced hunter with you and only eat what you’re sure is safe, or rely on the bounty that will be available at local markets.

Federweißerzeit

Federweisser PHOTO: Erin Porter

Germany’s wines have rightfully earned a place in the international community, particularly the white wines of the Rhineland-Palatinate region. But this hasn’t always been the case. Germany’s wines were once most associated with cheap, overly sweet wines like Liebfraumilch. With vineyards dating back to Roman times, Germany’s reputation has steadily improved with the global market increasingly aware of the many excellent wines the country can produce.

One wine I have yet to hear much about outside of Germany is Federweißer. This delightfully effervescent young wine comes with bubbles. It is usually white, though it can be red or pink and is called “feather wine” for its cloudy appearance. Still in the process of fermenting, it must be stored upright as the semi-open tops allow for the gas to escape – and the wine if you aren’t careful. Look for the chilled cases to arrive in late summer/early fall with drops of sticky wine leading away due to careless shoppers. Be sure to pick up a  Zwiebelkuchen (onion cake) to pair with it.

Kohlfahrts

Former co-blogger Sarah loving (?) recounts her time in Germany going on Kohlfahrts (cabbage tours) and the confusion of her British friends and family.

I’ll be taking part in my second Kohlfahrt in February. My British friends find it bizarre when I explain I’m going on a Kohlfahrt to play games, drink Schnapps and finish with a hearty dose of Kohl und Pinkel but when in Rome, or Germany, do as they do.

It’s Germany so you can find cabbage year-round, but make plans for your own fun-to-say Kohlfahrt from November to February.

Bärlauchzeit

Bärlauch pesto bread

Bärlauch pesto baked into bread PHOTO: Erin Porter

It took years of me walking through funny ankle-high grass to have someone point out that you can eat it. Wild garlic grows freely in the forests of German and is usually made into tasty pesto. Beginning in mid-March, it is so plentiful you can make jars of the stuff to enjoy long after the plants flower in May.

Spargelzeit

I’ll end with the “King of Vegetables” and undoubtedly the Germans favorite food season, Spargelzeit (asparagus season). Though the green is becoming more common here, it is the woodier,  more delicate, white asparagus that has the Germans gaga from mid-April to a hard stop date of June 24th, St. John day.

For Germans, Spargel is a full-on obsession. There is no escaping it and you will eat Spargel during its season. Hopefully you like it. Luckily, it is easy to love. Served in soups, salads, or simply alongside boiled potatoes and Holländische Sauce, there is no end to their inventions with Spargel.

For a full English guide on Spargel, I refer you to the expert, Christie at A Sausage has Two. I also highly recommend her seasonal eating guides with plenty of recipes for inspiration.

Happy eating!

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About Erin "ebe" Porter
Motherlord of an American expat family in Berlin. I hail from rainy (but lovely!) Seattle & am raising two little Berliners. Drink, travel, write.

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