Leipzig City Guide

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What to See and Do in Leipzig

Introduction
Leipzig has one of the longest histories of any German city. As a trade city, that history goes back to the Holy Roman Empire, when Leipzig sat at the intersection of two vital medieval trade routes: the Via Regia (east-west) and the Via Imperii (north-south). More recently, in 1989, Leipzig made its own history by playing a key role in the fall of communism in Central and Eastern Europe. The famous “Wir sind das Volk” (We are the people) Monday peaceful protests began in Leipzig, starting from the St. Nicholas Church (Nikolaikirche). Those peaceful mass marches spread to other cities all across the German Democratic Republic (GDR), and eventually led to the fall of the Berlin Wall, the collapse of East Germany’s government, and German reunification in 1990.

Altes Rathaus - Leipzig - at dusk

Leipzig’s Old City Hall (Altes Rathaus) on the market square is now a museum. In the background, to the right of the center tower, the City Highrise (Panorama Tower), Leipzig’s tallest building, is visible. The old city center is very walkable, but Leipzig also has a good public transport network. PHOTO: Krzysztof Golik, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

The vital, up-and-coming Leipzig you visit today is still recovering from setbacks it incurred during 40 years of communist rule following World War II. Isolated from West Germany and Western Europe, the city’s cultural and economic importance declined, compared to its former role as one of the major German and European centers of music, publishing, and trade. The collapse of the East German economy in the 1990s was also hard on Leipzig, but the city has experienced a resurgence over the last couple of decades. Leipzig is gradually reclaiming its former position as a German and Western European urban power player. Dresden may be the Saxon capital, but Leipzig is now Saxony’s biggest city, giving it a leg up on its rival.

JUMP TO:
Getting to Leipzig (below) | Top Attractions | Arts & Culture
Culinary Leipzig | Architectural Leipzig
More Leipzig Sights | Walkable Leipzig


Getting to Leipzig

Rail Travel
Most people not driving or flying arrive in Leipzig by rail. Deutsche Bahn (DB, German Rail) offers frequent regional, Intercity and high-speed ICE rail connections to Leipzig from all over Germany and Europe. Train travelers arrive at Leipzig’s Hauptbahnhof (Central Rail Station), one of Germany’s most notable and oldest stations, dating back to 1915. The station’s popular multilevel shopping hall, created in the mid-1990s, is known as the PROMENADEN Hauptbahnhof Leipzig.

Leipzig's Promenaden Hauptbahnhof with multilevel shops

Leipzig’s multilevel Promenaden Hauptbahnhof (Main Rail Station) was voted Germany’s best in 2023! In addition to rail connections to all of Germany and Europe, it features a wide array of shopping opportunities for travelers and residents alike. PHOTO: Hyde Flippo

The train station also serves as a center for the MDV (Mitteldeutscher Verkehrsbund), the Leipzig/Halle regional public transport system for central Germany. A single MDV ticket is valid for travel on the S-Bahn, regional trains, trams, and buses. (Germany’s discount D-Ticket for all of Germany may also apply. Check on current conditions.) Tickets can be purchased from ticket machines at stops, stations and in vehicles, from a bus driver, at service points, and in retail shops and selected travel agencies. You can also download and use several mobile apps (DB Navigator, MOOVME, LeipzigMove, FAIRTIQ) to purchase tickets digitally.

Leipzig Bahnhof Trivia
The World War II film drama Shining Through (1992, German title: Wie ein Licht in dunkler Nacht), with Michael Douglas, Melanie Griffith, and Liam Neeson, contains scenes shot at the Leipzig Central Station. Although Shining Through was set in Berlin, and filmed primarily in Berlin and Potsdam starting in October 1990, the Leipzig station, 100 miles (160 km) south of Berlin, stood in for the German capital because none of Berlin’s grand rail stations had survived WWII. In 1990/1991 the Leipzig station had not yet undergone its 1996 modernization by Deutsche Bahn. – Unfortunately, critics and audiences felt the novel by Susan Isaacs that the film was based on was far better than the movie.

Air Travel
Leipzig is served by the Leipzig/Halle Airport (Flughafen Leipzig/Halle, IATA airport code LEJ), an international airport approximately 14 km (9 mi) northwest of Leipzig and 22 km (14 mi) southeast of Halle (Saale) in the town of Schkeuditz. It only takes about 12 minutes to travel between the airport and Leipzig’s main station via the S5x rail connection from the airport railway station. The MDV S-Bahn commuter line connects travelers directly to Leipzig and Halle, plus other nearby communities.

The Leipzig/Halle Airport primarily offers flights to vacation destinations, with the largest airline being Condor, a former charter airline. Domestic flights by Eurowings connect to Düsseldorf, Köln/Bonn and Stuttgart. Lufthansa links Leipzig with Frankfurt and Munich. DHL Aviation, a major cargo operation, moved its European hub from Brussels to Leipzig-Halle in 2008, and it has twice expanded its facilities there since then. Originally opened to passengers in 1927, the terminal underwent a major renovation in 2011-2012, when Leipzig was bidding for the 2012 Olympic Games that ended up going to London.


Top Leipzig Attractions

Below is an overview of the most worthwhile attractions in Leipzig. Some attractions link to more detailed information.

Leipzig - Thomaskirche - Bach statue

Johann Sebastian Bach is closely associated with Leipzig and the Thomaskirche (St. Thomas Church). His grave is located inside the church, and this statue outside commemorates the composer. Learn more below. PHOTO: Hyde Flippo

The Markt and Altes Rathaus
Located at the heart of Leipzig’s Old Town (Altstadt), this square next to the city’s former City Hall is ground zero for starting your exploration of Leipzig. The Old City Hall is a beautiful Renaissance structure dating back to 1556. The colonnaded structure has been remodeled over the years. Inside you’ll find a museum devoted to Leipzig’s history, including the 1989 “We are the people” resistance movement that helped lead to the end of East Germany’s government. (See the photo at the top of this page.)

Alte Börse at Naschmarkt
The Old Stock Exchange (Alte Börse/Handelsbörse) at Naschmarkt is Leipzig‘s oldest Baroque building. Originally built by merchants in 1678, the building has served as a gathering place for 200 years. In those days auctions were held, money was exchanged, and the site was a business mecca. The building was completely renovated from 1992 to 1995, with emphasis placed on recreating the original 17th century style of the facade’s white and gold color scheme and the window glazing. Today the Börse is used for concerts, lectures, official receptions, and theatrical productions.

The Thomaskirche and the Nikolaikirche
These two churches are only a short stroll from each other. Johann Sebastian Bach was closely associated with both, and his flower-adorned grave is located inside the St. Thomas Church. Not far away to the east is the St. Nicholas Church, which was home to the city’s 1989 peaceful revolution movement. Its beautiful interior, with its palm-crowned columns and a beautiful grand organ, is definitely worth a visit. Bach was the musical director at both churches, and headed the St. Thomas Boys Choir, founded in 1212. Public concerts are offered from time to time inside the Thomaskirche, with a token one-euro admission charge. Note: The Bach Museum is just opposite the St. Thomas Church and the Bach statue. See more about the museum below.

Mozart in Leipzig (1789)
Mozart’s trip to northern Germany (Prussia) from his adopted hometown of Vienna lasted from 8 April until 4 June 1789. Mozart had accepted an invitation to travel to Berlin with Prince Karl Lichnowsky. They departed Vienna for Berlin, traveling via Prague, Dresden, and Leipzig. Mozart stopped twice in Leipzig, once while en route to Berlin and again on his way back from Berlin. They arrived in Leipzig on 20 April and spent three days there. Mozart visited the famous Thomaskirche, where Johann Sebastian Bach had served as music director several decades earlier. (Bach died in July 1750.) Mozart, a great admirer of Bach’s music, improvised on the organ of the Thomaskirche for about an hour. After visiting Potsdam and Berlin, Mozart returned to Leipzig on 8 May. He gave a concert at the Gewandhaus concert hall on 12 May, which consisted entirely of Mozart’s own music. Mozart remained in Leipzig until 17 May, enjoying the company of a few friends also visiting the city. Mozart wrote his wife Constanze that his departure was also delayed by a lack of horses for the journey back to Vienna.

J.S. Bach portrait - 1748 - Bach Museum, Leipzig

J.S. Bach holding his “Riddle Canon”, BWV 1076. This portrait of Johann Sebastian Bach at the age of 61 shows him in official garb and wearing a wig. It is the only painting of the composer from life. It was created by Elias Gottlieb Haussmann (1695-1774) in two versions, one in 1746, the other in 1748. The version seen here, Haussmann’s second 1748 painting, was in private hands until 2015, when it was returned to Leipzig and put on display at the Bach Archive and Museum. The 1746 version is exhibited at the Leipzig Museum of City History (das Stadtgeschichtliche Museum Leipzig). PHOTO: Hyde Flippo

Bach Archive and Museum
The year 2023 marked the 300th anniversary of Johann Sebastian Bach (1685-1750) in Leipzig. In May 1723, Bach arrived in Leipzig to accept his new position as the musical director and cantor (Kantor) at the St. Thomas Church. During his time in Leipzig he revolutionized classical music and composed many great cantatas, symphonies, and other works that are now famous. Bach himself became the most performed composer, Leipzig’s most famous son, and one of the giants of cultural history. The Bach Archive and Museum, located directly across from the church where he first served and in which he is now buried, is devoted to his life and works.

The Bach Archive and Museum is a library, research center, and museum devoted to the composer who spent the rest of his life, 27 years, in Leipzig. The museum presents the life and works of Johann Sebastian Bach and his family in an interactive multimedia exhibition covering an area of 750 square meters. One of the highlights is the treasure room, where original Bach manuscripts and other precious items are on display. As part of the 300th Bach anniversary, the Bach Museum sponsored Bach concerts in the Summer Hall (Sommersaal) from late January until 10 December 2023. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday (and on public holidays) from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. Admission is €10 for adults (€8 reduced). Children aged 16 or younger are free. Groups of 10 or more pay €9 per person. The museum is located in the Bose-Haus at Thomaskirchhof 15/16, just south of the St. Thomas Church.

The Battle of the Nations Monument
Known in German as the Völkerschlachtdenkmal (Völki for short), this towering stone structure, was completed in 1913 for the 100th anniversary of the victorious battle against Napoleonic troops in the Battle of Leipzig. It is a prime example of the ponderous Wilhelmine style of architecture, and the largest war memorial in Europe. (See photo below.) Softened a bit by being set at the end of a reflecting pool, the massive monument has a 91-meter (300-ft) tall viewing platform (500 steps, no elevator) offering a striking panorama of the city and its surroundings. The interior features impressive 12-meter high heroic statues. (These can be seen in the Hunger Games prequel, The Ballad of Songbirds & Snakes, which was filmed in part inside the monument.) A museum devoted to the Battle of Leipzig (lost by Napoleon’s forces) is below the monument, which can be reached via a 15-minute tram ride (Line No. 15) from the city center.

Völkerschlachtdenkmal, Leipzig

The Battle of the Nations Monument (the “Völki” in the local vernacular) opened in 1913 to commemorate the “Battle of the Nations” in 1813 and the important defeat of Napoleon Bonaparte’s troops. It can easily be reached via public transport from the city center. The view from the top is great, but don’t miss the interior. PHOTO: Ke1207, CC-BY-SA-4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

The Leipzig Zoo
Considered one of the best in Germany today, Leipzig’s zoo (Zoologischer Garten, “zoological garden”) is noted for its natural environment settings – from tropical to Himalayan – for the animals, and its large collection of large cats, including the largest, the Amur tiger. The zoo also features one of the largest aquariums in Germany. It is located northwest of Leipzig’s main rail station (Hauptbahnhof).

The Stasi Museum
The Museum in der Runden Ecke (Museum in the Round Corner), also known as the Stasi Museum, delves into GDR history. Housed in the former East German security police headquarters, also known as the Stasi, this chilling and archival exhibition explores what life was like behind the Iron Curtain. English guides are available, and necessary, to fully understand and appreciate the extensive collection of Stasi propaganda, cunning surveillance equipment and other machinations that explore the GDR‘s controlling and oppressive rule.

Red Bull Arena
Formerly known as Zentralstadion (Central Stadium), this venue became the home stadium of FC Sachsen Leipzig in November 2004. But a lot has happened since then. In 2006 Dietrich “Didi” Mateschitz (1944-2022), the co-inventor of the Red Bull energy drink, and the richest person in Austria, wanted to buy a German football team. At first he targeted Leipzig’s struggling team, but fan resistance and DFB branding rules forced a change of plan. After other failed efforts, finally in 2009 Red Bull GmbH acquired playing rights via a minor team near Leipzig, and soon RB Leipzig (full name: RasenBallsport Leipzig GmbH) was playing matches at the renamed (in 2010) Red Bull Arena. (The DFB forbids the use of a corporate name in a club’s name. UEFA rules require that the stadium be referred to as RB Arena for European matches.) The arena has undergone extensive renovations since then, so that it is now virtually a new stadium. Red Bull Arena can now house up to 47,000 spectators. Stadium tours are available by signing up in advance.

Also see: 48 Hours in Leipzig by German Way writer Erin. How a Berlin family with kids spent a weekend in Leipzig.


Arts & Culture in Leipzig

Augustusplatz and Its Attractions
This area is good for strolling, but it is also the heart of Leipzig’s arts and culture scene. The Augustusplatz (Augustus Square), just east of the city center, has had several different names. When it was first created in 1785, it was the Platz vor dem Grimmaischen Tor (“square in front of the Grimma gate”, Grimma being a town about 16 miles (25 km) southeast of Leipzig. The Leipzig street named Grimmaische Straße is also still there.) In 1839 it was renamed Augustusplatz after Frederick Augustus I (1750–1827), the first king of Saxony. From 1945 to 1990, as part of East Germany (GDR), the square was known as Karl-Marx-Platz. During the last years of the GDR the square was the central gathering point for the Monday demonstrations (“Wir sind das Volk!”/”We are the people!”) that helped bring down the East German government. Following German reunification, the Augustusplatz name was restored. The architecture surrounding the square reflects the various epochs in the city’s history. Below are four notable landmarks located around the square.

The Panorama Tower (City-High-Rise)
Today the Augustusplatz is the focal point for several of Leipzig’s musical and educational institutions. The square is bisected by a tram line, with a fountain, centered in each half. From 1972 to 1998, the city’s tallest and the most prominent feature, the City-Hochhaus (City High-Rise), a modern 34-story skyscraper on the west end of the square, was home to Leipzig University, the second oldest in Germany (1409). The university now occupies adjacent buildings near the tower. Now owned by the US investment bank Merrill Lynch, the City-Hochhaus is officially known as the Panorama Tower, but it has two nicknames in German: Uniriese (university giant) and Weisheitszahn (wisdom tooth). The tower offers one of the best views of the city from its rooftop viewing platform. It was fully renovated in 1999–2002. Besides the Plate of Art restaurant with views from the 26th and 27th floors, the building now also houses Leipziger Tourismus und Marketing GmbH, the MDR public broadcaster, and the European Energy Exchange (EEX).

Gewandhaus Concert Hall
On the south side of the Augustusplatz is Leipzig’s renowned Gewandhaus concert hall. The current hall, the third one to house the city’s orchestra, opened on 8 October 1981, 200 years after the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra moved into the original hall. The first hall, at a different location, designed by architect Johann Carl Friedrich Dauthe, was built within an upper floor of a building used by garment merchants, the Gewandhaus (“garment house”). That hall, later remodeled and repurposed, is now referred to as the Altes Gewandhaus (“Old Garment House”). Felix Mendelssohn (see below) was one of the orchestra’s noted directors there. The second Gewandhaus concert hall was an entirely new, larger building designed by Martin Gropius. Named das Neue Concerthaus, the new facility opened on 11 December 1884, and had a main concert hall and a chamber music hall. During this era the Gewandhaus Orchestra was directed by some of the most renowned conductors of the day, such as Arthur Nikisch, Wilhelm Furtwängler, and Bruno Walter. The Gropius structure was badly damaged by Allied aerial bombing in 1943 and 1944. The original postwar plans were to rebuild the Gropius hall, but in the end it was decided to tear it down and build a new one at a different location. And that is das Neue Gewandhaus we see today. Great care was taken to ensure that the third Gewandhaus had the outstanding acoustics of the second one by Gropius.
Program/Concert Schedule: gewandhausorchester.de in English

Leipzig Opera (Oper Leipzig)
Looking north from the Augustusplatz you’ll see today’s Opernhaus (opera house), which was constructed between 1956 and 1960. The city’s first opera theater, the Oper am Brühl, opened in 1693. The Baroque composer George Philipp Telemann was the composer of many early operas performed there. He was director of the house from 1703 to 1705. The next home of the Leipzig Opera was the Neues Theater, which opened in January 1868. It was destroyed by an Allied bombing raid in late January 1943, along with all other theaters in Leipzig. The current, modern opera house opened on 8 October 1960 with a performance of Wagner’s Die Meistersinger von Nürnberg. The Oper Leipzig has no orchestra of its own, a tradition that began in 1766, when the Gewandhaus Orchestra first provided musical accompaniment for opera productions, as it does to this day. For information and the current season schedule see the web link above (in English).

The Paulinum
The nearby new Paulinum complex on the east side of the square also belongs to the university. It was constructed in 2007-2012 to replace the Paulinerkirche (St. Paul’s Church) that had been demolished by the East German government in 1968. The complex contains a chapel that reflects the original university chapel, and a large assembly/lecture hall (die Aula). The facade of the Paulinum, designed by Dutch architect Erick van Egeraat, features a modernized form of collegiate gothic architecture that echoes the original church building.

Paulinum Augusteum - Leipzig

The new Paulinum: the Augusteum (left) and the university church (St. Pauli) in July 2012. The University of Leipzig is one of the few German universities that retain the tradition of having their own university chapel, a tradition dating back for over 500 years. On the left, part of the Panorama Tower can be seen. PHOTO: Concord, CC-BY-SA-3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

The Mendelssohn-Haus
The Mendelssohn House at Goldschmidtstraße 12 in Leipzig opened as a museum in 1997. The composer Felix Mendelssohn lived here from 1845 until his death in 1847. The International Mendelssohn Foundation was established in 1991, with the late Kurt Masur as chairman, with the goal of saving and restoring Mendelssohn’s last home in Leipzig.

Besides Bach and Schumann, Felix Mendelssohn (Jakob Ludwig Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy, 1809-1847) is one of Leipzig’s big names in music. (Felix’s father Abraham informally adopted the additional Bartholdy surname in 1812, and legally in 1822. His children were baptized and brought up without a religious upbringing. Most of the family did not like the added name.) Although Felix was born in Hamburg, the noted Jewish composer, pianist, organist and conductor was a child prodigy who spent most of his adult life and career in Berlin, Düsseldorf and Leipzig. Unhappy in Düsseldorf, Mendelssohn accepted an offer in 1835 to take over as director of Leipzig’s Gewandhaus Orchestra. Mendelssohn was only 38 in 1847, the year he died in Leipzig after a series of strokes, only six months after returning from a concert tour of England. Mendelssohn’s funeral was held at the Paulinerkirche in Leipzig, but he was buried at the Dreifaltigkeitsfriedhof I (Trinity Cemetery I) in Berlin-Kreuzberg.

Schumann House
The Schumann House in Leipzig, which Robert and Clara Schumann moved into the day after their marriage, was the first home the couple shared. Today it is a museum with the ‘Schumann Saal’ for small concerts and the ‘Klangraum’ for special events.

Annual Events in Leipzig
The following list includes cultural and traditional events that take place annually in Leipzig. If you will be in Leipzig at the right time, you can plan attending or participating.

  • Bachfest | Johann Sebastian Bach festival in June
  • Lachmesse | Since 1990 Leipzig’s “Laughter Fair” has been the venue for Germany’s largest international cabaret festival, which takes place in October.
  • Christmas Market (Weihnachtsmarkt) | Leipzig’s Christmas Market, one of Germany’s oldest, dates back to 1458.
  • The Leipzig Book Fair (Leipziger Buchmesse) is held each year in March. See more below.
  • Jazztage | “Jazz Days” – 48th contemporary jazz festival, at various venues in the city, 19-26 October 2024
  • Klassik airleben | Free open-air classical music concerts on two consecutive evenings by the Gewandhaus Orchestra at Rosental Park – 22-23 June 2024
  • Highland | Music festival at Lake Störmthal near Leipzig, 16-18 August 2024
  • Leipziger Stadtfest | The Leipzig City Festival is a big three-day open-air fair with beer gardens that takes place in the center of town with five stages and amusement rides for the kids. It’s Leipzig’s version of Oktoberfest. 2024 dates: 31 May – 2 June.

Learn more about Leipzig in Part 2 of this guide: More Sights, Culinary Leipzig, Architectural Leipzig, Walkable Leipzig.

Next | Leipzig City Guide – Part 2
More | City Guides: Germany

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