A perk of my new job is that the headquarters is in Vienna. While I usually work remote from Berlin, there have already been a few opportunities to visit the team in office, as well as combine work and pleasure by taking some days to explore other places in Austria. On my last trip south I took the train and stopped in Munich, Nuremberg, and Salzburg. I had visited all these places before, but none more briefly than Salzburg. This fairytale city deserved a longer visit so we scheduled three days of sightseeing in the land of the von Trapps, mountainous fortresses, and perfect plate-sized schnitzels.

Salzburg Austria at night. PHOTO: Erin Porter

Brief History of Salzburg
The Salzburg of today is heavily reminiscent of its history. The city was established all the way back in 696 C.E. by a missionary named St. Rupert. First a Benedictine monastery was built, then a small town grew around it.

The town became an independent church state under the influence of powerful and ever-changing archbishops. It continued to grow in splendor with over 120 churches, castles, and cathedrals still around today. It is one of the many places referred to as the “Rome of the North.”

By the time composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born here in 1756, the Baroque city was much as it looks today. In 1816, Salzburg became part of the Habsburg Empire. It got tossed around in the early 19th century when Salzburg was annexed by Austria, returned to Bavaria and divided between Bavaria and Austria. In 1918, Salzburg became a federal state of the new Republic of Austria, and in 1938 Germany annexed Austria and Salzburg became part of Germany. After WWII in 1945, Austria became independent of Germany once again and was its own federal state.

The city always had its fans, but there was a surge of visitors after the 1965 release of “The Sound of Music” set here. Still a beloved film, there are several film locations in and around Salzburg people continue to visit.

Of course the city is more than just a film set. In 1997, Salzburg’s Altstadt (Old Town) was recognized as a UNESCO’s world heritage site with one of the best-preserved city centers in the German-speaking world. There are an estimated 991,000 visitors every year! It is easy to tie a visit with other destinations like Vienna just an hour away, and Munich only two.

What to See in Salzburg
More than anything, Salzburg is known for its spectacular alpine setting. Who doesn’t remember Maria spinning away on a flower-covered mountain top? Along with the towering mountains visible from every corner of the city, the Salzach river runs through the center.

The Hohensalzburg Fortress in Salzburg. PHOTO: Erin Porter

The Altstadt is the man-made star. There are charming cobblestone streets that hobble between baroque buildings with business-specific signs poking out overhead. There isn’t an ugly street to be found…unless you wander around the Neustadt near the train station. But in the older sections, the city is truly breathtaking with charm elevating to awe for the many churches and cathedrals and the massive Festung Hohensalzburg forever towering overhead.

Visitors can reach the fortress in a mighty 20-minute walk, but it is most accessible via the funicular which runs every ten minutes and only takes a minute to whisk you up. Buying a funicular ticket also offers entrance to the fortress. Most of the site is fairly bare bones, but the views are impeccable and areas like the puppet museum I found to be both gimmicky and interesting.

Once you descend back to the Altstadt, there is Mozart’s birthplace which is now a museum, film locations from the “The Sound of Music” like Mirabellgarten and the gazebo at Schloss Hellbrunn, and the many lovely squares, cathedrals and shops to explore. Though the statue in Mozartplatz gets some deserved scorn, my family spent an enjoyable interlude listening to a very talented opera busker. You can also satisfy your sweet-tooth by trying to find the true original Mozartkugeln. (The Originale Mozartkugel is from the Fürst family and there are several locations).

If you are visiting during the world-famous Salzburger Festspiele (Salzburg Festival) held each summer, you can experience some of the best stage productions the city has to offer.

Where to Eat in Salzburg
In the land of excellent Schnitzel, you certainly won’t go hungry in Salzburg, but you might go broke. Eating out is expensive, but there is a surprising range of beautiful restaurants to choose from. I asked my Austrian boss where he would eat in Salzburg and he supplied this list of local-approved places:

• Restaurant Fideler Affe – Located on the other side of the river from the Fortress, this family-run inn serves traditional fare.
• Stiegel Keller – This restaurant is above the station at the fortress and is a brewery with typical local food. It can be a bit touristy, but convenient.
• M32 – This restaurant, cafe and bar is open most of the day and is located in the Modern Art Museum.
• Restaurant Meissl & Schadn – At the end of one of the most touristic streets, Getreidegasse, this is a showroom of schnitzel. You can watch the chefs make their version of the famous dish in the massive windows, or go in for an elegant version once ordered by Sigmund Freud.
• 220Grad – There are locations for this popular cafe throughout the city, but my boss recommended the Nonntaler Hauptstrasse locaton. I concur.
• Augustiner Bräustübl – On our first night we struck out finding a table for a family of five at some of the recommended places before coming here. At first I was confused if this was the same as Munich’s Augustiner as it is a massive beer hall with a 1,400-seat beer garden. It is quite unique in that it is do-it-yourself with self-serve beer and multiple Schmankerlgang (deli stands) to pick from. We got a hearty plate of ribs, deliciously over-salted shaved radishes, sausage and – of course – beer.  Founded by monks in 1621, this place has been showing people a good time for hundreds of years.
• Balkan Grill – I had never heard of a “Bosna” before and at first glance it resembles a hot dog. Small stands sell these in many locations, but Balkan Grill may be the original. A grilled pork sausages is paired with white bread and some version of onions, fresh parsley, spices and sauce to make one of the cheapest and most satisfying meals in the city.

Have more tips to share on this small but lovely city? Please share it in the comments below!