The German Way: Life in Austria, Germany, Switzerland

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Traveling by train in Europe can be a lot more pleasant if you know some of the tricks of the trade—particularly in Austria, Germany, and Switzerland. European trains, including Deutsche Bahn (German Rail), are among the best in the world. Europe’s fastest trains, the French TGV and Germany’s high-speed ICE (InterCity Express), are technologically ahead of anything running on U.S. rails.
 

ICE banner & link
ICE graphic courtesy of Tobias Köhler's ICE/ICT Page

The popular InterRegio express trains zoom across country borders, connecting major European cities. The normal, everyday InterCity (IC) and EuroCity (EC) trains crisscross Europe, offering convenient connections to cities inside and outside Germany. The discontinued D-Züge (through-trains) and the slower Eilzug will not be missed. (Although eilen means “to hurry,” an Eilzug wasn’t really fast at all.) The regional trains are now designated RB (RegionalBahn, stops everywhere) and RE (RegionalExpress, faster, does not stop everywhere). Learning to read the train codes (RE, EC, IC, ICE, etc.) on German schedules can help you find the fastest train to your destination.

Since all big or medium-sized cities, as well as many smaller communities in German-speaking Europe have a train station (or two or three), train travel is convenient and efficient. The main train station (Hauptbahnhof) is usually located in the center of town, from which commuter trains, taxis, streetcars, and buses can take the traveler straight to a final destination. The weakest link in this otherwise efficient chain is often the station ticket office, where it seems there are always too few ticket agents for too many passengers. Long lines and long waits are all too common.

Deutsche Bahn also has a (deserved) reputation for delayed trains and other frustrations (technical failures, strikes, dirty coaches) for its passengers, but when things go right, travel by rail in Germany can be a pleasant experience. Compared to rail travel in some other European countries (Italy comes to mind), German trains are above average. (I could write an entire chapter about my misadventures on an Italian train from Venice to Rome!)

Photo
You can use the practical Wagenstandanzeiger shown here to find your car on the long rail platform and avoid walking through half the train to find your seat. The platform is divided into sections labeled "A" to "E." The car locator can tell you almost to the nearest meter where your car will stop.

BAHNCARD | Deutsche Bahn offers its so-called BahnCard that can get you a 50 percent discount on some types of train tickets. If you are living in Germany or will be there for an extended period of time, a BahnCard may be a good option. See the Deutsche Bahn website for prices and benefits. More on the next page.

CREDIT CARD DANGERS | Although the “new” Deutsche Bahn AG finally entered the 20th century by beginning to accept credit cards in 1992, bearers of Visa, MasterCard, or American Express cards still must be wary. Look for logos and/or a sign (sometimes handwritten) that mentions "Kreditkarten" or "credit cards." You can't just walk up to any ticket window and expect to use your card, even though that is common practice in most of the world. (The Austrian and Swiss railroads are a little better in this regard.) Don't just assume you will be able to use a credit card to purchase train tickets at every one of the over 5,000 rail stations in Germany, although it has become more common. You should even ask in advance at a German travel agency to be sure they accept credit card payment for rail tickets.

INLAND and AUSLAND | DB used to act as if train travel outside of Germany was so exotic that they had to separate ticket sales for "Inland" (domestic) and "Ausland" (foreign). Now there are universal counters without separate Ausland counters for international trains. And they even take credit cards!

YOU GOTTA HAVE CLASS | European trains are divided into first and second class. Look for a large “1” or “2” label on the car near the door. Some special trains (EC, IC, ICE, etc.) also have a surcharge or Zuschlag added to the price of the ticket, whether it is first or second class. If you have not already paid the surcharge, the conductor will require payment when checking your ticket. The surcharge for ICE trains varies, depending on the connection.

NEXT > Rail Tips Part 2

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