The German Way: Life in Austria, Germany, Switzerland

In many ways, the German way of dining out is similar to that anywhere. However, many a US-Amerikaner (as Statesiders are known in German) or Canadian has been surprised—or has surprised a German waiter or waitress—by failing to know the European way of dining out.

Dining photo
A stream-side restaurant in Freiburg’s Altstadt (Old Town). > See a LARGER VIEW
For example, North Americans used to leaving a tip on the table need to know that this just isn’t done in the German-speaking world. (Details coming up.) Worse, you could seriously over-tip if you don’t know what you’re doing in Europe. (A 15-percent “service charge” is almost always included in the bill.) You could literally wait forever to be seated by a host or hostess in a German restaurant. (You usually find your own seat. It’s not very difficult with a little practice.) Wondering where the water is? (Tap water is verboten!) Why are these people asking to sit with us? I’ve never seen them before in my life! (It is common for complete strangers to sit at the same table when a restaurant is crowded. And very practical.) What do you mean, you don’t take credit cards!? (Many dining establishments in Austria and Germany do not accept plastic.)

Are you beginning to understand why you (U.S.-Americans and Canadians) need to be reading this? (Continental Europeans and experienced world travelers may now click on to the next topic.) Believe me, it will be worth reading through all this—because it is difficult to get a bad meal in the German-speaking world. (However, it can be done. Just remember rule number one: Never eat in an establishment where the bar seems to be more important than the dining area!)

German Restaurant Basics

FINDING A SEAT  |  Upon entering an Austrian, German or Swiss dining establishment do not wait to be seated. It could be a long wait. Diners are expected to find their own table. Sometimes a foodserver may deign to suggest a table, but they’re usually too busy ignoring the people who are already seated. If you see a sign (in German, of course) that says “Please wait to be seated,” you have chosen an exclusive and probably very expensive spot to dine. Most of the time you just find your own seat.

WATER  |  For some strange reason Americans expect a glass of water, suitably chilled, to automatically appear at their table in a restaurant. This no doubt stems from Prohibition. However, most Europeans avoid drinking tap water in general—not because it isn’t safe; they just don’t want to spoil a perfectly good meal with such a bland liquid! After all, there are so many better things to drink!
    If water is desired, it is almost always bottled Mineralwasser (sparkling mineral water), not out of the tap. Most Americans who somehow learned the German phrase for “tap water, please” (“Leitungswasser bitte.”) rarely use the phrase a second time. The puzzled look of disgust on the server’s face is usually enough to discourage all but the most emboldened from any second attempt. It is a look that says: “Ordinary water is fine for bathing, but only a moron would drink it!”

Tired of Wiener Schnitzel?  |  (NO! It’s not a hot dog!) Are you bursting with Bratwurst? Then try the German version of Chinese food! (Amazing how “Chinese” food gets around!) Or perhaps some spicy Indian fare? Most German towns of any size have more to offer than just German fare or McDonald’s. There is a very good chain of Indian (from India) restaurants in Germany. You’ll also find an Argentinian steak house on every other corner. Turkish Döner Kabap, a sort of shish kebab in pita bread, has now become the German national fast food. — So give those taste buds a little adventure! You’re in Europe, for crying out loud! In the words of Auntie Mame: “Life’s a banquet and most poor suckers are starving!”

STRANGERS AND OTHER MATTERS (as in NO
FREE ROLLS)
 |  The German custom of sitting with perfect (or imperfect) strangers is really very practical. The first time it happens can be a little unnerving for an Ami but after a while it makes a lot of sense. Usually you politely ignore each other. Sometimes the Germans may want to try out their English on you, but an American is no rarity in Germany.
    Like most Americans, the Germans also believe there is no free lunch—or at least no free bread rolls. Feel free to partake, but the rolls aren’t free. Nor the butter. (Each pad is carefully counted.) But before you show your American indignation, remember—there is no free lunch. Or dinner. In the States (you’ll get used to that phrase) the rolls and butter are included in the price of your meal (as mediocre as it may be). Because it’s “free” you gobble up some rolls you may or may not really want. In Europe they are more honest about it. You pay for what you consume. You really have to be hungry to eat rolls you know you’re going to pay for. — And that brings us to the very topic of paying.

PAYING THE CHECK & TIPPING  |  This is almost always done at the table with the waiter or waitress who served you. The foodserver even carries a money pouch to take care of the financial transaction. He or she also receives an automatic 15 percent of the check, included in the price of the meal. This service fee is known as Bedienung. So don’t add on another 10-15 percent! And don’t leave any tip on the table. In Europe you usually round off the amount of the check (which the foodserver will amazingly compute in a few seconds—if the establishment hasn’t installed an increasingly frequent computerized billing system).
    If the service was better than average, or you just feel like tipping, add a few euros or Swiss francs to the total and tell the server. He or she will then give you change for the rounded-off total. If you are paying by credit card (less common in Germany; see below), the procedure is the same as in the U.S. Just don’t add too much, since the total already includes the aforementioned 15 percent Bedienung! — Oh, by the way, a 16 percent sales tax (actually a VAT, value-added tax) is included in anything you buy in Germany, including meals. It’s always included, never added on as in the U.S. (Doesn’t that make the seven or eight percent sales tax back home look like a bargain in comparison?)

CREDIT CARDS  |  It can come as a rather nasty surprise to suddenly discover that the nice restaurant you just dined in does NOT accept credit cards. Although almost unheard of in North America, many restaurants in the German-speaking world, even some very fine ones, do not accept credit cards of any kind. It is wise to always check about plastic payment — before you order. If you don’t see any credit card logos—the familiar-looking ones for Visa, MasterCard, American Express, etc.—then be sure to ask the waiter. (But be sure the waiter speaks English, German or some other mutual language. A waitress in a Berlin Chinese restaurant once nodded yes to my credit card query. It was only when I tried to use my card that I discovered the young lady hadn’t understood a word I had said — in German. But my Chinese is very weak.)

Using these cultural tips, you should be able to dine and imbibe well—all across Austria, Germany or Switzerland. Guten Appetit! (Enjoy your meal! Bon appetit!)

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